Siberia Trekking - discover Russian nature

Route with square points of overnights.

Russia, Tuva, 10 Days, 200 km

Pictures of Tuva

The Republic of Tuva is a very interesting destination for hiking because it has got its own culture, beautiful landscapes and wild trails.

Our trekking route to the north-western part of Tuva in 2009 was a long and non-circular. We went there by two cars from Abakan and watched how grey mountains of Khakassia turned into yellow mountains of Tuva. Sometimes we could see sacred place of tuvunians - piles of the stones with ribbons. Near Ak-Dovurak we turned right and spent several hours on dusty hills before we got southern part of Kara-Hol lake

We started hiking in the field near the Chulcha River and headed for the north. The weather was nice for walking, clouds were floating across the sky and we moved pretty fast. The colours of the terrain were grey and yellow with green specks of woods. We were on a huge plain with mountains on the horizon, and some summits were covered by snow. The grass swayed in the wind and a flock of sheep grazed in the distance. There were only a few straggling houses of shepherds in this wilderness of Tuva. When we passed by one house, all people with small children went out to watch us and asked who we were and where we were going.

After the conversation we started climbing up the following trail. Step by step we got over the ridge and went by a horse trail. The sun was setting and lighted up everything around. We were going in the twilight along a hardly visible path till we reached a tiny lake high in the mountains. A soup with cheese was cooked after a while and we sat near the fire and looked at the immense sky. The night was warm and calm, the stars were bright and close to us.

The following morning we continued hiking over the ridge. The woods changed into brakes and the trail went up. Then it disappeared and we had to force our way through dense bushes for two hours. At midday we got to a place with a great view to wild mountains. The leaves of brakes were red and the colours were absolutely different. Here we turned right into a valley and got to Saralig-Kezhig Lake. There were no trees, only small bushes and stones. In the evening we reached a cold and picturesque lake near Ostry Peak. Our camp was surrounded by high walls with snow and nights were really cold.

In the morning we climbed up the ridge near Ostry Peak and went on a short hike to the next turquoise lake. I had never seen such an autumn palette in my hikes. The temperature fell below zero at night, so some leaves were got frozen. We cooked a soup on gas and went to our tents fast.

A fresh morning met us with a bright blue sky, so we prepared and went in a good mood. Sometimes we jumped over the water and crossed the Kolkolu-oyuk river. It was the hardest day in our trekking. Step by step we forced through the valley without any trail. Ripe bog bilberry was everywhere, that's why we stopped from time to time.

We went along the Kolkolu-oyuk river and in the evening we got to a larch forest, and in the evening gathered by the fire, it was so warm and comfortable compared to stay near Ostry peak.

The following morning we got to the Monagy river, the main difficulty of our route. Fortunately, a water level wasn't high, so we could cross the river lossless. We used a rope and spent about an hour getting over the Monagy. On another side we found a good horse trail. The valley of the Monagy river was very scenic, especially in this season. The first kilometers of the trail we went high above the river. We went through a yellow forest of poplar, green conifer trees and grass slopes. We didn't see any locals there, but at times we saw the signs of tuvans: fences and buildings.

We were coming up to the mouth of the Monagy when we saw yaks in a floodplain. They grazed in the distance and didn't see us. It was amazing! It's interesting that yaks live in Tuva but not in Khakassia in spite of a short distance between these republics.

At last we reached the plains near Kara-Hol lake. We set up our camp near the river and walked through the fields to the shore of the lake. In 2008 we saw a lot of birds here, but now the shore was empty because the fall was coming. We took a couple of pictures and returned to our camp. While we were walking Natasha cooked an excellent pilaff and a cake for dessert. It was very delicious after porridges and soups. We spent a night and in the morning went by the route. We visited tuvinians and for three hours we had chatted, eaten national meals and ridden a horse.

At midday we said "Good bye!" to friendly locals and went to Ustyu-Eldig Hem valley, known to us since 2008. In was raining when we were setting up our camp and get into the tents very quickly. In the morning we contunued moving to Kolbak-Pesh-Pazhi-Art pass, everything around was red and grey, clouds were floted slowly around us. We stood for several minutes on tha pass plateau in silence and then descent to Ak-Hem valley.

The firewood was crackling when we were sitting by the fire and were watching the flame. It was a good place for thoughts about ourselves. A few days passed since our leaving Abakan, but there in the wilderness they seemed like a month.

Our last overnight in tent was cold and in the morning we discovered an ice in our cans. There was time to return to civilization.

Evgeny Karachakov